Friday, May 05, 2006

The heat is on in Saigon

After not really liking Bangkok, we were a bit apprehensive with what we were going to think of Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). It was going to be by far and away the biggest city we had been to since Bangkok and we had heard mixed reviews, which included that it was more hectic and dirty than the Thai capital. We had also been told by some people on the last day of our Mekong Delta tour that the cheapest accommodation was likely to be $US10+, which would hurt our budget.

Our bus dropped us on De Tham Road, which is the Kho Sahn Road (backpacker district) of the city and our tour company offered to mind our bags for us while we searched for a room. Right outside the office we were approached by a woman who asked us if we were looking for a room.

“Yes, how much?”
“$8 with aircon and hotwater.”
“How much for cold water and a fan.”
“5.”
“Okay, we’ll have a look.”

Because of the cheap price and the location right in the centre of the city, we were expecting the room to be a bit of a hole. So, with apprehension we followed the lady down a tiny allyway, into a typical Saigon building (narrow and tall) and up several flights of steps. When she opened the door of our room for us, we didn’t hesitate. “We’ll take it.”

The room was small but classy, with a huge TV with Sky and a balcony overlooking shabby rooftops – let’s just say we were happy!

That evening, we went out to find dinner and found that at night, Saigon transforms into a vibrant, bright place, with shops open late, heaps of restauants and bars and colourful market-style eateries – just a great vibe.

The next day we went to the War Remnants Museum; a place dedicated to the Vietnam War. It was quite shocking to see some of the displays of the effects of Agent Orange on the people who were exposed to it and their children. Agent Orange was a chemical dioxin the Americans (and, I guess, Australians) sprayed over the country to kill off the vegetation and drive the Viet Cong (North Vietnamese Communist fighters) out of hiding. Since the war, its horrible side effects have been felt by both the Vietnamese and Westerners. One of the worse effects is the physical deformities and mental disabilities that have appeared in the children of those people who were exposed to the chemical.

The rest of our days in Saigon were spent wandering the town and shopping. Among our purchases were two pairs of fake Diesel jeans, two fake Ralph Lauren Polo tops and one pair of genuine Adies (Adidas is just a poor immitation). The Adies lasted three incredible days until they were melted by the Mui Ne sand dunes.

On our second night in Saigon, we discovered the Sax’n’Art Jazz Club. Needless to say, Niels was in heaven. He got to sit in with the band for two nights and made a great friend in the owner, Tran Manh Tuan. Tran was Vietnam’s first musician to study at Berklee College of Music in Boston. He was awarded a scholarship to study there and now returns to the US for regular concerts. After two months on a road lined with South East Asian karaoke, Niels found it great to be able to finally play with such a great musician in such a great environment.

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